Inlay rings are beautiful pieces of jewelry art thanks to their intricacy and level of craftsmanship. However, this type of ring setting can pose issues when it comes to sizing work. Here’s what you need to know about inlay ring sizing.
What is Inlay?
Two rings with meteorite, dinosaur bone, and opal inlay from Celestial Rex.
Inlay refers to a specific style of setting where the stones or material are cut and then set flat into a cutout portion of the ring. Inlay can be made from precious stones such as mother of pearl, opal, lapis lazuli, or metals such as gold and silver.
This method of setting is typically used for pattern work, and is popular for items such as eternity bands as a result. While it looks beautiful from a visual standpoint, inlay rings are difficult to size due to the fact that the unique setting can get in the way of the sizing process.
How to Size an Inlay Ring
Before the jeweler can proceed with any work, the first step is to examine the ring. Is the inlay only in the front? Is it all around the ring? How the inlay is in the design will determine whether or not the ring can be sized.
If the inlay is in the front, the jeweler may be able to size it about 1 to 2 sizes without damaging the setting. This is because the jeweler has to pull in or out the back of the ring in order to size, and any extra strength on the shoulders of the ring will distort the inlay setting and potentially loosen or damage it.
These stainless steel eternity bands have sizing balls on the interior.
If the inlay is all around the ring, the jeweler can only size down. Instead of the traditional method of cutting into the ring to add metal, the jeweler will simply solder beads or a strip to the interior of the ring. This sizes the ring down by filling in the gap between your finger and the ring.
Inlay Rings That Can’t Be Sized
For ring sizing up and rings made out of materials such as tungsten, cobalt, or ceramic carbide, these items will have to be returned for a larger size as they cannot be worked on without destroying the entire design. Make sure to hold onto any warranties when purchasing these items to ensure that you can get an exchange.
Cost and Turnaround Time
Despite the difficulty of sizing inlay rings, the cost is roughly around $35 for regular cut-and-size for half-inlay rings, and beads also start at $35. The strip method is more expensive due to a need for more material, and that starts at $50 and up depending on the metal.
Turnaround time is typically 1-3 days, except for stainless steel sizing.
Now you’re all set on how to size an inlay ring! If you have one that you need to work on, comment below and we’ll help you get started.
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